tension-setting: what you need to know

Monday, January 24th, 2011

kara | daniel jewelry ring: raw diamond cubes tension-set in stainless steel

there’s something magical about a tension-setting. the gemstone is seemingly suspended in air. you can see all sides and facets of the stone. the gem is allowed more light to play and refract in. so is this setting right for you?

for starters, tension-setting is actually a misnomer. it isn’t tension that’s holding that stone in place, it’s compression. the metal wants to close in on itself, and there is something that is stopping it from doing that, the gemstone. for this equation to work you need two things.
1) a strong metal, like stainless steel that has adequate spring tension.
2) a gemstone strong enough to withstand the compression of said metal. sapphire (including ruby) and diamond are good candidates here.

this setting requires that we be very precise. sizing of the client is critical; tension-settings cannot be made larger, and only in limited situations can be made smaller. the setting must be carefully calibrated for the chosen gemstone; not enough compression the stone could come loose, too much compression the stone could fracture. with careful attention to detail a jeweler who specializes in tension-setting, like kara | daniel, can create a setting that is stunning and secure. the beauty of your gemstone is in full view, there are no prongs to worry about, you have a ring setting you can live in! you can find more examples of tension-settings in our ring gallery.

refresh for the new year: Happy 2011!

Friday, January 14th, 2011

it always feels good to refresh for the new year, and that’s exactly what we did for this great renew/refresh/recycle custom ring project.

gold pendant with diamond becomes a tension-set diamond ring

a client approached us with the pendant pictured above. it was a family piece, and while it had sentimental value, it was a piece that she just wasn’t going to wear. enter kara | daniel! we specialize in creating jewelry you can live in. we discussed her style, what she wanted the piece to “do”, what elements she wanted to carry forward into the new piece (the diamond, the gold, or both). we came to a tension-set diamond ring, with the recycled gold as an accent. the stainless is clean and contemporary, the diamond is classic, and the hammered, oxidized gold lends an earthy organic feel. we’re thrilled with the final piece, and so was she.
you can check out more of our custom rings in our ring gallery. what’s in your jewelry box that needs an update this year?

rutile quartz: this fall’s radiant gem

Sunday, September 26th, 2010

it’s officially fall… the equinox has passed and the shift of season is upon us. as I start to layer on clothes this fall and brew my favorite chai tea with almond milk, I’m creating jewelry that has an inherent warmth to it too. it’s all about the warmth and brilliance of rutile quartz this fall. rutile, as it’s often shortened, has all the clarity of quartz, with the most spectacular golden “needles” (or “inclusions” ) penetrating the quartz. it shines, it shimmers, it blazes. we love it.

the mineral rutile  is made up mostly of titanium dioxide. when rutile appears within quartz, creating rutilated quartz, it often appears as needles of included color. in the gorgeous examples we’re working with this fall, the rutile quartz looks as if it is filled with gold fibers, however there is copper rutile and a gray rutile as well. golden rutile has also been known by various names: Venus hair stone, Fleches d’amour, and Cupid’s darts. energetically rutile is a gemstone that helps to bring ease in transitions…and who couldn’t use a little help there!

You can find a preview of this fall’s Gold Collection in our photo gallery, and shop it in person at many of our galleries and boutiques. enjoy & wear it well!

Shakti: a yoga inspired collection

Monday, May 31st, 2010

the Shakti Collection

Shakti Collection ~ a yoga inspired collection. be infused and empowered by a gemstone’s energy.

when I’m not creating jewelry, photographing jewelry, traveling to share our jewelry, blogging about jewelry, answering emails about jewelry (you get the idea), chances are I’m practicing or teaching yoga. I’ve considered myself a yogi for many years, and my practice very much supports the work and creativity I am able to give to kdJ. Given what a integral part of my life yoga is, it was only a matter of time before kara | daniel debuted a yoga inspired line.

Introducing… the Shakti Collection

Shakti from Sanskrit ~ sacred force or empowerment, is the primordial cosmic energy.
represents the dynamic forces that move through the entire universe.

The Shakti Collection features yoga inspired pendants, and energetically significant gemstones. Each piece is accompanied by it’s story; the significance of the symbols and the qualities inherent in the gemstones, energy present in crystalline form. Find the perfect piece to infuse you with Shakti.

Available from kara | daniel JEWELRY at art fairs this summer and Earthly Delights.

studio or garden?

Sunday, May 16th, 2010
kara | daniel earrings - spring/summer 2010

kara | daniel earrings ~ spring | summer 2010

spring has sprung, and the awful truth is that our biggest artist dilemma this time of year is “studio or garden?”. luckily for all of our clients and collectors that are planning on seeing brand new work in the next few weeks we’ve found a work around – create with the palette of the season. our studio overlooks our organic raised vegetable beds and perennial gardens, and with one look at our jewelry this season you’ll have a sense of what’s happening right outside our windows.

rubies as deep as the magenta clematis, carnelian trying to pass as oriental poppies, jade and grossular garnet mimicking mesclun lettuces, amazonite and aventurine pop up as frequently as forget-me-nots.

it’s all about the color this season, find us and these gorgeous gems soon! find us this weekend at the East Lansing Arts Fest in East Lansing, MI.

keeping it fresh for 2010, what’s new from Tucson?

Sunday, February 28th, 2010
new materials - spring 2010

matte crab fire agate, hand-carved serpentine, matte carved aquamarine

Early in February we returned from our yearly gemstone buying adventure. We travel to Tucson, which hosts the largest international gem show, for a few dizzying days of being overwhelmed by the myriad of colors the earth creates, unique cuts and carvings, various finishes… you get the idea. Upon returning from Tucson we’ve been busy at the bench, creating our newest spring lines. As we’re just about to debut our spring collections, we thought we’d give you a sneak peek at the raw materials we’re using right now… just wait until you see the finished product.

A few of the gemstones we’re creating with: (from left to right):

  • matte crab fire agate: Funny name, fabulous stone. This beautiful stone is warm amber oranges, to cool burgundy reds. It has lovely light striations, which lend a crackled appearance. These stands are softly matte finished. We’re working this in as big, chunky necklace strands, and fabulous elongated barrel shapes which make appearances as pendants.
  • hand-carved serpentine: Look, touch, love. Serpentine is a mineral closely related to jade, which gives it the same pleasing properties: it’s soft, even silky to the touch and easily carve-able. And Serpentine comes in a variety of colors, as you see above: cool blues, olive green, yellow or golden, brown, cream or black. Look for these as asymmetrical accents, and landscape-esque (I can make that a word, right?) pendants.
  • matte carved aquamarine: What? Aquamarine? Yes, Aqua it is. Isn’t it fabulous? Possibly my favorite find this year, these huge Aqua beauties are delicious enough to eat. I have never seen matte Aquamarine, and I’ll guess you haven’t either… just one of the reasons I love it! Look for this Aqua to be paired with those Serpentine pendants from above. And don’t forget, Aquamarine is a March birthstone – what timing.

Now that you’ve had a sneak peek at the raw materials it’s time to see the completed creations. For our Southwest Michigan fans, your chance comes this Friday, March 5th, at Kalamazoo’s Art Hop at Food Dance. With unique materials like these, each piece of jewelry is a one-of-kind creation. You’ll want to see the full spring line.

images by kdJ

the gemstone of the moment: Garnet

Wednesday, February 3rd, 2010

Pomegranate & Garnets

Punica Granatum ("pomegranate") & Garnet

a history of garnets

  • The name “garnet” comes from the Latin word granatus (“gran”) in reference to the Punica Granatum (“pomegranate”) a plant with red seeds similar in shape and color to garnet crystals. Garnet dates back to the Bronze Age and, due to is beauty and durability; it has been popular in both ancient and modern times.
  • In a tradition beckoning from Greek mythology, Garnet is often given as a gift of love and one that is associated with eternity.  As such it is sometimes used as a symbol of trust, devotion and loyalty. In Greek mythology Hades gave pomegranate seeds to Persephone to ensure her return. This tale has led  people to use the gift of garnet  jewelery as a token to ensure the return of a loved one.
  • The garnet is actually a name for a group of silicate minerals that offer a wide range of deep colors. Garnet comes in almost every color, except blue. Below are the names of particular types of garnets and their respective color.
    • Almandite – red, orange-red with brown, purple-red
    • Andradite – black, green, yellow
    • Demantoid – green, yellow-green
    • Grossularite – brown, green, orange-yellow, white, yellow
    • Hessonite – range of orange to brown
    • Malaya – orange, red-orange, yellow-orange
    • Melanite – black
    • Pyrope – red, orange-red, purple-red; all quite dark
    • Rhodolite – purple, red-purple
    • Spessarite – orange-brown, red-orange, yellow, yellow-brown
    • Mandarin – vibrant orange
    • Tsavorite – bright, dark green
    • Uvarovite – range of greens
  • All of these types of garnets share similar chemical and structural properties.

  • Garnets are produced all over the world. From The U.S. (Arizona), South Africa, Sri Lanka, Brazil, India, Argentina, Australia, Scotland, Switzerland and Tanzania – this stunning gem is found in many locals.
  • This Valentine’s Day give the gift of a garnet…from kara | daniel!
  • reNEW, reuse, recycle

    Thursday, January 28th, 2010
    simple diamond stud

    before

    reNEWed trio of stainless steel rings

    after

    one of the most enjoyable ways to wear gorgeous jewelry responsibly is to renew a piece of jewelry or gemstone that has fallen out of rotation in your jewelry box. remember that heirloom marquis diamond that your great-aunt Mildred gifted you years ago? and you thought you’d never wear it…well now it can be the focal piece of a contemporary stainless steel ring, a tension-set pendant, almost anything you can dream up. these photos are from our latest in reNEWed jewelry. a simple and traditional diamond earring in gold longed for an update. so we created this trio of rings to show it off.

    • top: stainless steel mini-scroll with gold recycled from client’s jewelry
    • middle: stainless steel band with recycled gold inlay
    • bottom: stainless steel mini-scroll with re-set brilliant-cut diamond

    interested in a reNEWal project of your own? contact kara | daniel JEWELRY at kdJ@karadanielJEWELRY.com

    images by kdJ

    you’re environmentally friendly, shouldn’t your jewelry be too?

    Monday, January 11th, 2010
    an open-pit gold mine. for scale, notice the "huge" yelloe earth-mover in the center of frame.

    an open-pit gold mine. for scale, notice the "huge" yellow earth-mover in the center of frame.

    This huge (see the people in front of the track?) machine is used for open-pit mining of invisible gold particles. It scoops up surface ore, which is then processed chemically and eventually poured into gold bars.

    this huge (see the people in front of the track?) machine is used for open-pit mining of invisible gold particles. it scoops up surface ore, which is then processed chemically and eventually poured into gold bars.

    I have personally been to a gold mine.

    In 2003, while living in Northern California and creating large-scale functional metalwork, I had the opportunity to visit a goldmine that was in the process of closing. It’s an astounding and disturbing thing to see a hole seemingly to the center of the earth that stretches out as far as the eye can see. But, this visual has served me well to remember what an enormous impact precious metal mining has on the environment. It can take up to 20 tons of ore required to produce enough gold for a single ring. Many gold mines also release cyanide and mercury into nearby water sources and are associated with poor safety standards, inhumane labor practices, and disregard for the rights and interests of indigenous people.

    So, what to do? We want to our jewelry to reflect our environmental consciousness and values, as do you. That’s why kara | daniel JEWELRY explores many ways to create jewelry that is as responsible, as it is resplendent. We work with raw material suppliers whose products are made with reclaimed/recycled metal or from third party certified, ethically mined metal. We recycle metals and gemstones from your existing jewelry to create updated and timeless pieces of art. We design with alternative metals such as stainless steel that do not carry with them such a heavy environmental and ethical price. Our commitment is to creating jewelry with integrity, that you can wear with integrity.